French bellringers in Nantwich

The French flag was raised above St Mary’s Church in Nantwich this week in honour of a group of visiting bellringers from Vernet-les-Bains.

The village, close to the Spanish border, is home to France’s only tower of English change-ringing bells.

Kathryn, Michael, Janet, Jim, Eva and Jeff travelled to Nantwich to ring at St Mary’s and celebrate the international friendship through the shared tradition of bellringing.

Vernet-les-Bains is a place with a special claim to fame among ringers.

Its St George’s Anglican Church is home to 10 bells, cast by John Taylor & Co in Loughborough and installed in 2019.

The bells are recognised as the first set of English change-ringing bells in France, and the only such ring in the country.

The project was led by Jeff who began working to bring bells to the church in 2014. The church, built by the English in the early 20th century, had a tower but no bells.

After years of fundraising and support from both local and international backers, the bells were finally installed in April 2019.

Jeff said the idea grew from a simple observation during time spent at a holiday home in Vernet.

“There was a church tower with no bells, so we started the process of getting bells in place,” he said.

St George’s is an Anglican church, but the building belongs to the French commune. That meant the agreement of the mayor and commune was essential.

The bells cost around €130,000 and were funded through crowdfunding, individual sponsorship and grants from the Fondation du Patrimoine, the Central Council and Central European Association.

Today, the tower attracts visiting ringers from Britain and beyond, as well as those keen to learn the art in France.

“We now teach bellringing there,” Jeff said.

“We currently have four learners, and the oldest is 80. One of the most famous visits was from the St Paul’s Cathedral band.”

Michael, who has been ringing for around 30 years, said the visit was part of a long personal journey through bellringing.

“I learnt to ring in Lincolnshire,” he said.

“I think of myself as a journeyman ringer, and this trip is our third. Previously I have travelled from Vernet to Cambridge, to Norwich and now to Nantwich.”

Stefan, who leads the bellringers at St Mary’s, has also visited Vernet-les-Bains for its bellringing summer school.

He said the link showed the strength of the international ringing community.

“It is so great that France has a bell tower — the only one in the country.

“English bellringing is unique not only because of the way the bells swing, but because it is not simply about creating a beautiful tune. It is also about the mathematics that surrounds the ringing.”

Vernet-les-Bains has a long association with Britain.

Once a fashionable spa town, it welcomed many British visitors who came to “take the waters”.

Rudyard Kipling and his wife were among those connected with the village, and streets and landmarks still reflect its French British past.

Nantwich Town Council Cllr Anna Burton said: “When the French flag is seen flying above St Mary’s, it should be understood as a tribute to friends across the Channel — and to the continuing international spirit of bellringing.”

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